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Yardmaster EY 810 shed
Delivery was rather delayed (over 5 weeks). When it arrived it was in three cardboard boxes. The two men who delivered it, carried the boxes into my yard where it was to be assembled.
The roof is to be assembled first and needed careful attention to detail.
There are literally hundreds of screws to put in and you must be careful not to over tighten, as the holes can easily be torn out which would require oversized screws to be fitted.
The walls are assembled on the site (in my case on a wall of one course of 18x9x6 inch solid concrete blocks) which was on a concrete base originally laid for a mobile home and since used for sheds and patio area. The reason for the 9 inch wall is to give more headroom and prevent flooding of the shed during periods of heavy rainfall.

Fitting the complete roof onto the walls has to be planned. It is necessary (in view of the 9” extra headroom) to place scaffold planks to walk along when carrying the roof. Two pieces of wood should be placed on top of the walls to rest the roof on whilst positioning it. When correctly positioned the roof is then raised and the wood removed one at a time and the roof lowered into position.

Finally the doors are fitted. This requires a bit of jiggling around to get them to fit. If they are noisy in operation, grease the track. This solved the problem on my shed.

Although these sheds are nominally 8ft by 10ft, this size refers to the roof with the overhang. Due to the design and construction the interior size compares favourably with sheds with conventional timber frame whether they are timber clad or corrugated steel clad. Interior lines are clean and it takes some initiative on the part of the owner to fit suitable rails to hang equipment from without risking long term damage to the metal shed.
 Any non-galvanised steel fittings should be insulated from the structure with a plastic layer, otherwise they will rust in time which will cause rusting of the shed structure. Shelves should NOT be fitted to the structure, instead make up a free-standing shelf rack which will transfer all weight to the floor. I have anchored my shelf rack to the structure with nylon cable ties from a shelf rail to the waist rail of the shed. This makes the shelf rack very stable.

As this is a steel structure and the electrical regulations now require more rigorous detail to installation and only officially qualified electricians can do the installation, I decided to make alternative arrangements. One way would be to use an extension cable from another building, the other way is to install a solar panel and light. I decided on both ways and purchased a Guardman Solar Shed Light. This gives just enough light to see things in the shed, for anything more you will require a petrol, paraffin, gas, candle lantern or install an elecrical extension cable (max load 13amp, practical load usually 10amp).

I manage all my grass cutting, strimming, hedgecutting, shredding and rotavating on this extension system. I have convenient 13amp sockets around my property and enough leads to be able to cover my 1/4 acre site. Always completely unroll cable reel leads, if you don't you could "cook" the insulation.

EY810. Black base is the 9" block wall, this gives added height. if you find the step too high a 6" block can be added either side to form a step.

Interior of the EY810
The tools are hanging from a tubular rail fitted into the galvanised rail each side and supported in the  middle by a wire hook  suspended from the ridge rail. The tool handle rails in the top of the picture are held by wire hooks suspended from the secondary roof rails.

The wooden shelf rack, fastened in position with nylon cable ties to the waist rail of the shed. Do not drill the shed, as this will cause premature rusting and invalidate the guarantee.