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Tillers
and Rotavators These
machines are to the gardener what tractors are to the farmer. The
larger of the two is the Rotavator, this can be used for breaking in a
new plot or turning over an existing plot. Some people think it is
easier than digging, but this is not the case. Using a Rotavator can
require as much effort as digging, but you do cover more ground in the
same time. Rotavator engines can be from 3hp to 7hp, it is usual for
them to be 4 stroke although some are 2 stroke.
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| Tillers
are usually smaller machines and can be powered by 4 stroke, 2 stroke
petrol engines or electric motor. There are several Tillers on the
market which have small petrol engines, these are much like
Mini-Rotavators. There are also some models that are powered by an
electric motor, which are quieter in use than the petrol engined ones. I have heard good reports of the Honda FG110 and the Stihl, but I have not seen any electric models available. Pricewise, you have to be prepared to spend at least £200 for a new machine. Cheaper models will probably not do the same job. I have for some years been using a Wolsley Webb Merrytiller Major, a very capable machine but you do need to be a Tarzan relative to control it. As I am approaching 80 I can no longer do so. The recent hike in petrol prices has also made me reconsider the use of petrol driven machinery. It is not only the price of petrol (+ road fuel tax, + 17.5% Vat) but also the need to drive to the filling station to get it. I have therefore decided that electric power is more economical and only carries a 5% Vat charge delivered to your premises. The outstanding machine from my experience, is the Mantis. After much researching I bought a Mantis Electric, I was not disappointed. It was better than I expected. I had thought that a very small light machine would not do the job required, I was mistaken, apart from digging compacted clay, this machine proved to be capable of doing normal cultivation and was superior to the heavier Rotavators in breaking down the soil into a fine tilth. This is understandable when you consider that the Mantis has 40 blades in a width |
of 9 inches, other makes
usually have 16 blades in up to 24 inches width. The speed of the rotor
shaft is also higher than the other makes. If you have compacted clay, it is advisable to dig the plot first to a full spit deep (about 11 inches), taking out any weed roots, nettles, convolvulous (bell vine), thistles, dandylions and in my case, horseradish. After it has been dug, you then have to try the tiller. If it is too wet you will have to wait for it to dry out, keep trying it, day by day until it breaks down easily. It is an acquired skill to know when it is right. One criticism of the Mantis Electric is that it has a very small UNC (Unified National Coarse) clamp screw which clamps the motor. In Europe and UK you may not be able to get a replacement screw easily, as the European standard is now Metric. The UNC screw can be replaced by a 4mm x 25mm metric screw but you will have to pack the nut to hold it in place. The UNC screw has a "TORX" head, this is a big mistake as the TORX head is not suitable for this type of use. The manual says to tighten the screw if it works loose. TORX heads can easily be mistaken for Allen Heads. Metric screws are often Philips/slotted heads. When will American manufacturers learn that if they want to sell to World markets they have to use World standards for nuts, screws and threads. When the TORX head stripped out I had to then drill the head out (carefully with a hand drill and 5mm bit) and drill the hole out carefully with the 5mm bit and replace the UNC screw with a 5mm x 25mm Metric screw. |
| The Mantis Electric Tiller | |
 Full view of the Mantis Electric |
 The Mantis Electric Tiller (1.1hp) |
| The Wolsley Webb Merrytiller Major | |
 The Wolsley Webb Merrytiller Major (4hp) |
 The other side |
 The Merrytiller with a Templer Cultivator |
 Transporter Wheels and the original tine supplied |
 A better tine made up at home |
 A home made Harrow |
 A home made "Miller" wheel |
 Another view of the "Miller" wheel |
| The Harrow is very useful for fining the tilth
and dragging out weed roots. The big tine is used to hold the Rotavator back instead of "running away". |
Miller Wheels were designed for normal farm tractors, the design allows dirt to fall through the wheel instead of sticking to a rim. They can be used with the Cultivator or the Harrow. |